Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Shopping in Tangier

Hello, my name is Deb and I'm a Moroccan pottery addict.

I've now been to Morocco five times. It's not only about the pottery.
I am simply taken with the color, people, sights, a
nd sounds of the Medina.
 It's sensory overload, and I can't seem to get enough of it. 
Every good shopping tour of Tangier starts at the Continental Hotel.
Tip #1: I don't recommend staying here, but do pay a visit. The tile work
in the upstairs common rooms (like this breakfast room) is stunning.

Once you've meandered around the rooms, taking 
"just one more [photo],"
head downstairs to the shop owned by "Jimmy." 
You can score some good finds in this dusty old shop.

I picked up two of these doors, originally from the Jewish quarter.
They are wooden shutters with camel bone inlay 
and not available at Walmart!
Will they "translate" well in our Florida condo?  ...TBD.

But good news and Tip #2: No purchase is too big to take
 back to Spain. Jimmy sent the doors to my hotel, free of charge.
The next day, they were loaded into a cab to the port and someone 
carried them on to the ferry for a small fee.  
Getting them off the ferry and into the car wasn't too difficult.
Hurray for big suitcases with rollers!
We perched a door on top of the case and rolled it off the boat to the car.
A big thanks goes to friends who managed the other one.
So, back to the pottery. Each region of Morocco produces its own
signature pottery. We like the design and colors of Fez.
Tip #3: Tuck a pen light in your pocket on your shopping trip.Why? Because
many of the shops are dimly lit. I've turned a bowl over and over and
declared it knick-free only to get it out in the sunlight and see a chip.
Lucky for us, we like the rustic look!

But, remember, it's not all about the pottery.
Everyday scenes in the Medina catch your eye,
 like this shop owner chanting in Arabic. 

or a housewife returning from her Safeway.

Tangier's Medina is not so big that you can't find your way.
I confess to having had guides on earlier trips, but this last 
time I had my bearings, and a friend and I explored on our own 
without worry. A couple of merchants recognized me, 
making me an official "regular."
Tip #4: We were told by a merchant that
if you come into a store with a guide, the price is automatically 
20 percent more.


On Sunday mornings, the Berber women come to market. 

Have you ever seen so much cauliflower? Tip #5: You can 
buy fresh vegetables like these and take them back on the
 ferry to Spain. Customs did not object.

No one does color like Morocco.

We happened upon this fish market. Oh, I should add "smells" to the
 list of sensations one experiences in Tangier.

Next door in the food market, we found preserved lemons, a Moroccan delicacy
commonly used in tagines. (Note to self: We have a lemon tree. Make these.)

Shopping Tips #6-8
No need to change your dollars into Dirhams. Nearly every vendor accepts 
American cash. So save yourself the exchange fees.

Cheat sheets made ahead of time are very handy. I wrote down the
conversion of Dirhams (DH) to USD, $1 to $100.
 In the heat of haggling, I whipped it out of my hip pocket and
 became a better bargainer.

(How much are the olives? 16 DH/kilo =about $1/pound.)

Back to the pottery...
And one last one. Shopping, anyone?

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